I’m writing this one as live as it gets. Maybe even no edits. I’ve been thinking about this post for some time. Thinking about themes and connections. But sometimes life presents itself in simple ways. Case in point, it’s been months since my last Triple B. Yet I’ve been to numerous breweries and coffee shops. I’ve surfed through most of the winter. I braved the cold air and sea just for the refreshing saltwater cleanse. But I’ve not written here. So a few minutes ago, I decided to forgo the analysis and just go for it. Turn and Go. Stop thinking and let the flow take over. Keep it simple. It’s a great lesson famous surfer and writer Steve Pezman captures well. It’s a great life lesson, too. So I am. Here.
Let me explain.
I’ve written. A lot. Matter of fact, in November I wrote an entire draft of a book called Musings from 19-81. I’ll share a synopsis later. But in the past few months I’ve also taken on a new approach to life.
In January, I took a shot. I’d been reading a book called The Surfer and the Sage. Shaun Tomson – a legendary Championship Surfer – was one of the authors. His outlook on life struck a nerve. So I reached out to him. He had zero reason to respond. Why would a guy who’s traveled the world catching waves and selling gear reply to a nobody on the Jersey Shore? Simple. Turns out that regardless of some of the stereotypes the surf community gets, the true heroes in this small stoke world want nothing more than to pass on the vibe. Shaun offered to schedule a Zoom call with me and we spent 45-minutes chatting about our worlds in the water and in the consulting business. Shaun consults, too. He teaches something called The Code. It’s his idea and it’s better you read about it on his site. But to sum it up, it’s a list of promises you write to yourself. The Code gives you purpose. It gave me purpose.
I wrote 12 promises to myself in my notebook. I folded them up and keep moving them to each new notebook, reading them aloud every chance I get. All 12 are of equal weight. But the first promise I wrote was the most important – “I will be present with Lil and Lainey.” I promised myself that I would be more focused on my girls. It’s not easy. Life is full of distractions and obligations. But I felt it most important to take a simple step and make sure to put down my phone when the girls want my attention. Every time? Not perfect. Do I strive. Yes.
I thought more about this post. How would I bring it together?
Then a few weeks ago I decided to sell my first SUP surfboard. It was a Father’s Day gift from my wife and girls. I surfed it for almost two years until somehow I progressed and started using a different, more advanced, board. This Monday I sold that first board to a guy who’d just had shoulder surgery and so he couldn’t paddle on a prone board for a while. He wanted to still be in the ocean with his kids. I was happy to see him take it. I shared the stoke.
I’m also looking to sell my advanced board, so I reached out to the guy it’s named after – Rick Weeks. Read his story. Again, the man surfs the world and has a partnership with Sunova. He had little reason to respond to me. Yet he did.
I thought more about this post. Connecting it to the book I wrote. Connecting it to 19-81 Brewery, or to Lokal brewing Co., or to MA’s Cafe. All places I’ve been to and experienced and you should, too. Great spots owned by great people. I’ll get to them later.
At about 10:45pm tonight on May 22 I decided to turn and go. To write. To keep it simple. The theme? Share the stoke. For you non-surfers, it just means to pay it forward. Enjoy life even when it feels rotten. There’s always some good. And make sure you pass on that vibe. Shaun Tomson and Rick Weeks embody the shaka spirit.
I took a picture of my Code. I read through my promises. I got to number 10. I smiled. Connection made. Only about one percent of the world’s population surf. Only about one percent know the feeling of nature propelling them across the glassy ocean surface. But everyone can relate to the feeling of passing on a positive vibe.

