Everyone knew I was upset when I broke my 1968 Gordon and Smith. My wife and daughters got me a gift card to Gordon’s - our local surf shop. And my friend Tarzan jumped in. He collects old boards. His garage is like a museum. But he takes his exhibits for a spin instead of keeping them locked behind glass. “Matt, I know you love these old boards like I do, so stop on over,” he said to me. So, I did.
First wave that I saw, I turned to paddle into and “pop”! My entire back seized up and I found myself unable to move. Pure adrenaline. Looking back, that’s how I figure I got myself and my board out of the water.
A few weeks ago, the editors at Bronze Bird Books asked if I'd be interested in submitting any work for their upcoming anthology - Tiny Moments: Vol IV. Happy to share that they accepted one of my short stories called The Race, inspired by one of Jim Inzero's paintings. Thanks, Jim! You can buy the … Continue reading Get ‘Tiny Moments: Vol IV’ – includes my story called ‘The Race’
