As I crafted this post, I knew I wanted to write about my recent personal firsts. These unfolded between two weekends in late October. But I was unsure of the through-line. Then it hit me while jotting down an idea in my notebook. I enjoy my job and surfing for the same damn reasons.
The end of summer ushers in smaller waves in New Jersey. Routines shift, including unpacking wetsuits and revisiting Hemingway's The Old Man and the Sea for inspiration. Family time and presence take precedence over surfing. But a trip to Cape May somehow merges my passions into one beautiful memory.
Everyone knew I was upset when I broke my 1968 Gordon and Smith. My wife and daughters got me a gift card to Gordon’s - our local surf shop. And my friend Tarzan jumped in. He collects old boards. His garage is like a museum. But he takes his exhibits for a spin instead of keeping them locked behind glass. “Matt, I know you love these old boards like I do, so stop on over,” he said to me. So, I did.
Matt DeVirgiliis 