For the seasoned surfers, they read these maritime tea leaves like it’s second nature. Matter of fact, Coach Robbie, as he’s known, posts his own forecast. He’s looking at the above sources and then some. He’s looking at low pressure systems off the coast of Africa and disturbances in Earth’s magnetic force... Me still being a rook, I’m not as good at it. But I’m trying.
... the best coffee I've had in the past few weeks wasn't in a cafe.
I’ve gotten sliced across the forehead by a paddle, slashed in the shoulder by a fin, and of course broke ribs wiping out. Sometimes the injuries are flesh wounds – fin cuts. Other times the injuries are serious. It took eight-weeks for my ribs to heal. Eight-weeks to be able to hug my daughters and sneeze without seeing stars.
Matt DeVirgiliis 