As I crafted this post, I knew I wanted to write about my recent personal firsts. These unfolded between two weekends in late October. But I was unsure of the through-line. Then it hit me while jotting down an idea in my notebook. I enjoy my job and surfing for the same damn reasons.
Everyone knew I was upset when I broke my 1968 Gordon and Smith. My wife and daughters got me a gift card to Gordon’s - our local surf shop. And my friend Tarzan jumped in. He collects old boards. His garage is like a museum. But he takes his exhibits for a spin instead of keeping them locked behind glass. “Matt, I know you love these old boards like I do, so stop on over,” he said to me. So, I did.
For the seasoned surfers, they read these maritime tea leaves like it’s second nature. Matter of fact, Coach Robbie, as he’s known, posts his own forecast. He’s looking at the above sources and then some. He’s looking at low pressure systems off the coast of Africa and disturbances in Earth’s magnetic force... Me still being a rook, I’m not as good at it. But I’m trying.
Matt DeVirgiliis 