Everyone knew I was upset when I broke my 1968 Gordon and Smith. My wife and daughters got me a gift card to Gordon’s - our local surf shop. And my friend Tarzan jumped in. He collects old boards. His garage is like a museum. But he takes his exhibits for a spin instead of keeping them locked behind glass. “Matt, I know you love these old boards like I do, so stop on over,” he said to me. So, I did.
First wave that I saw, I turned to paddle into and “pop”! My entire back seized up and I found myself unable to move. Pure adrenaline. Looking back, that’s how I figure I got myself and my board out of the water.
I'm a sucker for nostalgia. I also love the stories that permeate the background of everything we experience. From restaurants and bars to guitars and surfboards, I search out the story... Over the past few weeks, a story unfolded about one of my surfboards in a seemingly choreographed set of scenes as if crafted by Coppola himself.
Matt DeVirgiliis 